Declining levels of flavour in food have been reported throughout the last century. For an industry defined by this very measure, this provokes the question – how can we connect people with food in ways that are meaningful, accessible, and sustainable?
A whole industry, for the best part of a century has worked to describe and suggest enviable flavours and tastes in order to promote and sell food products. In reducing food to this one quality though, we have overlooked the richer, more meaningful narratives that give food its true value beyond taste.
How did we get here?
The ability to discern taste has long been tied to a person’s cultural cachet, denoting class, status and expertise within echelons of society, as theorist Pierre Bourdieu explored in-depth. Taste-makers then, were responsible for setting the agenda on what good taste looked like, which drove consumption cycles in the intervening decades, created ‘must have’ dishes, and influencing what foods and dining trends came in and out of fashion.
The rise of the foodie, something between a ‘gourmet and glutton’ emerged in the 1980s, to identify a person with refined taste in food. This characteristic appeared against the backdrop of globalisation of agricultural and manufacturing systems which introduced once-exotic ingredients to a broader swathe of the public.
Since then, the proliferation of social media platforms and the dominance of visual media have put food front and centre in entertainment, both on and offline, and have helped democratise access to food culture.
However, for a sector built around taste and flavour, it is one in peril. Nutrient-rich soils are required to produce foods that are full of nutrients, and resultantly, flavour. Decades of intensive agriculture and industrialisation globally have degraded environments, reduced crop resilience, and diminished nature’s capacity to restore itself to good ecological status.
Add in stressors to food production systems as a result of climate catastrophe, and food security looks less stable than ever. Just this week, it was reported that the looming El Niño event (natural climate phenomenon resulting in rising ocean temperatures) will compound existing issues within the supply chain, and more than a tenth of food imported by the UK is at risk of supply.
How then can we navigate this complex, uncertain scenario and find adaptive and impactful ways to engage and promote food and its accompanying parts?
Three approaches to consider include:
Educating citizens
It’s important to acknowledge that many people are disconnected from where food comes from, and how it is produced. The urbanisation of society has removed many people from such processes, and alongside this food literacy levels have declined, ultra-processed foods (UPFs) are widely consumed, the ‘corporate slop bowl’ that has come to dominate fast-casual take-out lunches, and food delivery services are on the rise. However, on a material level, access to food is becoming less equal, with the Food Foundation’s Broken Plate report 2026 finding that in the UK, the lowest income fifth of households would have to spend 85% of their total income to afford Government advised healthy diet.
Therefore, there is a pressing need and opportunity to re-engage people and educate them with new skills, stories and ways to best enjoy their food, regardless of their means. Meal-Planning apps with strong digital first content like Mob and BOSH! have exploded in recent years, providing inspiration and basic skills built around convenience which we know is king!
Eating seasonally
In a world that values novelty, abundance and taste, perhaps the simplest and most achievable way to meet these criteria is through narratives rooted in seasonality. Fresh produce at its natural peak will always taste better than that which is consumed out of season. An abundance of crops also allows for prices at market level to be more affordable; while supporting local producers too so it’s a mutually beneficial process.
Just as food trends covet exclusive ingredients, seasonal ingredients have an inbuilt lifespan that bring natural variety to mealtimes. In this guise, this season’s picks are literally available while stocks last. Resources like Bord Bia’s Best in Season calendar provides users with an interactive way to track what foods are produced nationally, and when. This can serve to connect people with their food more and learn to live in rhythm with nature.
Embracing diversity
Monocultural farming has resulted in single variety crops being produced intensively, with impacts for plant health and ecosystems. Taste forms part of this conundrum. When a grandparent says they remember the taste of strawberries from when they were younger, this was a correct assessment, not a case of rose-tinted glasses. The Cavendish banana, which is notably the sole variety of banana produced commercially globally, was bred for yield and uniformity, not flavour, and this has also resulted in its very existence being threatened by a disease. Interestingly, the banana flavour associated with confectionary, medications and beverages was originally synthesised from the Gros Michel variety of banana which was renowned for its flavour. Author and broadcaster Dan Saladino’s work on food diversity, endangered foods and food security has highlighted how interlinked these crises are, and by not joining the dots, we may eat our way ‘to extinction’. From Heirloom tomatoes to purple potatoes, and ancient grains – diversity is abundant in nature, and this should be celebrated.
By reframing foods as more than just what they taste like, we can unlock all that they truly represent: community, culture, climate, power, joy, education, sustenance, and much more. There are endless stories to be told and it’s time to begin sharing them.
Katie is currently completing research as part of an MSc Climate Change at Dublin City University which examines the role of communicators and taste-makers in promoting more sustainable food systems.